This month we had the pleasure of interviewing American milliner Barbara Feinman. This is what she had to say.
It was serendipity. I was always involved in fashion, sewing, art,
making things, collecting bits and piees of decorative stuff etc., but
never thought of hatmaking as a career. Then, when I was at a
transition point in my life, fed up with the corporate world, my best
friend registered for a textile design course at F.I.T. (Fashion
Institute of Technology in NYC). She learned of the millinery program,
and decided that it would be perfect for me. And she kept nagging me
until I registered for a course. it was love at first sight. The
moment I walked into that millinery studio, I felt that I had come
home.
I took the 4-part program at F.I.T. and got my certificate in 1992.
I actually sold a few hats before finishing the F.I.T. program. After
getting my certificate, I worked for a short stint at Eric Javits.
After working for Javits, I started selling wholesale, working out of
my apartment. A big help at that point (around 1993-4) was a very
large wholesale order from Barney's, for which I was fortunate go get
paid, as they were on the verge of bankruptcy. I was able to keep most
of that money, as my overhead was nonexistent.
For 2-3 years prior to 1998, I shared a studio in the East Village with
an associate, and sold my hats in her shop. Then in 1998, I opened my
own store in the East Village. Since then, I have sold mostly retail,
with a smaller proportion of wholesale.
Everywhere -- Movies, the street, old photos. Often, a design will be
inspired by a new trim or a new material which I can work with in a
different way. Of course new blocks inspire new designs, as the more
blocks you have, the more ways you can combine them in different
shapes. Mistakes are often a great impetus -- you end up with
something accidentally, or wind up creating something new by correcting
or covering up something you did wrong. Finally, just playing with
materials, colors, and so forth.
I can't really think of one commission. In general, I'd say a very
enjoyable thing is creating a hat for someone who is difficult to fit
-- someone who walks in thinking no hat looks good on her, and walks
out feeling beautiful.
But the most gratifying thing is making a hat (or several) for a woman
who is undergoing chemotherapy for cancer, or is losing her hair for
some similar reason. Most of what's available to such women is not
very chic, but I've had a fair amount of experience with what looks
flattering on someone who is (or will shortly be) bald, and creating a
hat that makes them feel feminine again is enormously gratifying
emotionally. I've had women return months or years later to thank me
for helping them through a devastating period their lives. Now that
really feels good.
Simple, chic, somewhat trendy but not faddish, with a strong retro
influence. I especially like cloches influenced by the 1920's.
My store is in a very young, trendy part of town. I'd say my average
customer is a woman in her 20's or 30's who wants to look stylish, and
understands the value of a hand made hat. The hats are mostly for
every day wear with a smaller percentage of dressy styles like cocktail
hats, wedding hats, etc. I occasionally do hats for brides, but it's
not a big part of my business.
I love doing hand-draped styles in velour and hand-sculpted trims in
felt. Those are my favorites and I think my trademark.
Barbara Feinman Millinery
66 East 7th Street
http://www.barbarafeinmanmillinery.com
info@feinmanhats.com
212 358 7092
Barbara Feinman Millinery work:
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